Relax the Elbow to adjust Air Pressure

Arm Position

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Arm Position ==>

Primary Information for How & Why


To effectively embark on this skill builder, there are a few key pieces of essential information you need to know. These primary details will guide you in learning & performing the skill correctly and maximizing the benefits of your practice.

  • Thinking strategically for how much tension is needed and adjust the elbow appropriately.

    Success = Description of what good looks like for this skill.

  • There are a few places to create tension in your body. Toes, core, tight breath plus elbow & shoulder engagement. When we bend the elbow it tends to radiate tension throughout the body.

    Why = Broad explanation of why this skill is important.

  • 1) We want to strengthen our ability to process information in a forward thinking manner. 



    2) When you are paused on the wall taking in information, we often think about the sequence of our hand & feet. I’m asking you to broaden your process to see if the hold might require you to 1st catch with a bent elbow and 2nd maintain that bent elbow to help you stay on the hold.



    3) The long term goal is to learn this skill where you can evaluate then execute without much mental strain. At first it will be complex until your body learns how to calibrate the numerous possibilities without much conscious thought.

    Directions = Written guidance for the skill.

Essential knowledge to be Effective 

To embark on any skill builder successfully, it is crucial to have a strong foundation of essential information. This knowledge will ensure that you perform the skill appropriately to maximize the benefits of your practice. This section will provide you with the necessary depth to best perform this skill builder.

  • 1) On “Easy” climbs explore feeling the tension in your body when you have your elbow straight -vs- bent. By expressing your breath through your mouth and hearing the purr of your engine.



    2) When previewing climbs in the “Focused & Engaged” range practice ID’ing the moments where you should bend or relax the elbow more compared to the other holds. Now attempt the climb and see how well you made observations compared to your experience.



    3) This is a next step to #2. After previewing and completing your first attempt, try the climb again with the goal of getting it just right. Repeat the process a few times if needed.



    4) This is the next step after #3. Practice getting the ratio of straight -vs- bent elbow just right. Explore using your toe tension to create the ideal amount of tension in your body. This requires learning to isolate toe flection and not letting it radiate to your core.



    5) When you get closer to your max grade the ratio of tension -vs- relaxed increases to maintain contact to the holds. Repeat progression 2-4 in the “Problem Solving” range.

    Progressions = Listing of the progressions for this skill.

  • You might need some tension in the body which can be supported with your toe tension or thumb pressure to manage your hips.

    Tips = There might be suggestions on how best to practice & integrate the skill.

References for this exercise

The references below provide clarity by explaining the key terms in a concise manner.

  • Edit the time field to reflect the total estimated time you spent practicing this skill.

    Record = What and how to record relevant data to track any changes.

  • Air Pressure is the level of tension in your body created by your breath and enhanced by your elbow.

    Definitions = Explanation of a term.