Dial | Relaxation & Tension

Ability to fine tune the amount of tension in the body.

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Ability to fine tune the amount of tension in the body. ==>

Primary Information for How & Why


To effectively embark on this skill builder, there are a few key pieces of essential information you need to know. These primary details will guide you in learning & performing the skill correctly and maximizing the benefits of your practice.

  • Able to quickly adjust the tension in the body for the current challenge.

    Success = Description of what good looks like for this skill.

  • To move fluid, we want less tension in the body but to stay tight & stable we need more tension.  The trick is to adjust for the moment in both directions.

    Why = Broad explanation of why this skill is important.

  • 1) Start by building awareness for what actually happened on the climb.

    2) Reflect on your past performance and identify the moments that requires tension or relaxation to perform well.

    3) Now create an adjusted plan for your next attempt.  This might include sections that need more or less tension in the body plus the timing of that tension or release.

    4) When you preview, include the tension or relaxation moments.  This will further enhance your performance.

    5) Attempt the climb and execute on your new plan.

    6) Repeat steps 2-5.

    Directions = Written guidance for the skill.

Essential knowledge to be Effective 

To embark on any skill builder successfully, it is crucial to have a strong foundation of essential information. This knowledge will ensure that you perform the skill appropriately to maximize the benefits of your practice. This section will provide you with the necessary depth to best perform this skill builder.

  • 1) At first you want to have awareness when the body is fully relaxed or tense.  Building control to toggle that switch is a valuable skill.

    2) Practice being strategic with your tension toggle will be beneficial for you to be fluid or static on the wall.  This is a 2 step level system of being ON or OFF.

    3) Now practice building a 3-5 level step for tension / relaxation.  Where is the tension increasing or where is the body relaxed?  Build a system where you adjust what parts of your body are tense and how quickly can you adjust various aspects of your body.

    4) Build on that practice so you are able to have tension or relaxation in specific areas through the body.  For example, can you flex your calf and still produce a soft relaxing breath?

    Progressions = Listing of the progressions for this skill.

  • First learn to turn tension ON or OFF. Next, practice not always finishing a climb with the most amount of tension in the body.

    Tips = There might be suggestions on how best to practice & integrate the skill.

References for this exercise

The references below provide clarity by explaining the key terms in a concise manner.

  • Edit the time field to reflect the total estimated time you spent practicing this skill.

    Record = What and how to record relevant data to track any changes.

  • Switch = Turning tension on or off like a light switch.

    Dial = Able to adjust and find just the right amount of tension required.  It’s like a light switch that you can adjust the brightness for the moment.

    Definitions = Explanation of a term.